THE HARMONY BETWEEN OLD ROMANIA
AND
THE NEW ENCHANTING ROMANIA OF 2022
If you are like me, when arriving to a familiar destination, the smells of the region reveal its identity. Romania is no different in the late fall; once I step out of the plane the mixture of wet soil and fog confirm my arrival.
It is imperative your initial move to rent a car. I recommend renting an automatic car, preferably a Dacia, manufactured locally. Please shop around as there are many rental companies at the airport with different offers. Next move is stopping at the exchange counter to exchange to Leu (Ron).
Now you are ready to head to the mythical city of Bucharest almost always with traffic jams. After settling in your hotel room, dress warm and head out sightseeing with the highlights being the People’s Palace (http://cic.cdep.ro/en ), and the Casa Ceausescu (https://casaceausescu.ro/en/rezervati-3/), which opened to the public in 2016 as a museum. You will not miss the lush and opulent life style of the family in this mansion. A totally different reality from the outside world and its people during the communist period.
At some point you should park the car to enjoy a walk in the old town of Bucharest and get lost in its gaveled streets. Manuc’s Inn is worth a stop for lunch not only to get introduced to the local cuisine but for its history and the many historical figures who passed through. Surely the ambience and history of the inn will win you over.
On your way back for a quick nap, do stop at the Stavropoleos Monastry to admire an Byzantine architectural gem and the amazing Carturesti Bookstore (@carturesticarusel ) built in 1903 for a family of Greek bankers which served as their bank until the early 20th century. Today, six levels and over 1000 square kilometers of books and souvenirs.
Herastrau Park is the evening spot to be at. This magical location with its lake is host to many activities, restaurants and bars. If you like design, I highly recommend Hiro Bay (http://www.hirobay.ro/ ) bar restaurant floating on the lake for drinks and dinner. Its numerous Design Awards are candidly justified.
December 1st is Romania’s Great Union Day and you will find all Romanians up on the mountains leaving the big cities vacant. Prahova river will be your guide to your final destination; Transylvania. Leaving the valley of Bucharest, you will slowly enter Prahova gorge. The road winds along the river with mountains on both sides.
First stop Sinaia and the Peles Castle (https://en.peles.ro/ ). Ignoring the rain and the heavy fog, this magnificent castle is nestled at the foot of the Bucegi Mountain; a masterpiece of German New-Renaissance architecture. A good spot to dry off and enjoy a good meal, Carol Gastro Bierhaus (https://carolpeles.ro/ ).
Before Brasov, Predeal; the highest mountain in Romania at 1100 meters. Known for its ski resorts, the mountain is impressive and attracts families who like to enjoy winter activities.
Brasov is an explosion of sparkling lights by night, blue, yellow and red; the Romanian flag. The town has a truly festive atmosphere notably the main street with sparkling lights which leads to the Council Square. Next to the famous Black Church around the square, you will find the Orthodox Church, Casa Muresenilor Museum, Museum of Urban Civilization an the Hirscher House. When wondering the narrow streets of Brasov old town, you feel as you have stepped back in time. Do stop at ChurchYard (https://www.facebook.com/ChurchYardRestaurant/ ) for dinner. Amazing tastes and exceptional atmosphere in an old building from the 1600 preserved by UNESCO.
Get all you can get in before midnight! Everything closes around 12 except for a few night clubs if you are in search of loud music and parties.
Start your day at Pretzel for breakfast in Brasov. You will find a great selection of different eclectic flavors of pretzels. 20 minutes from Brasov, Poiana Brasov, the most luxurious mountain resort in Romania. Located in the Carpathians, yet very close to a major city for easy access. 10 to 15 minutes by cable car you are at the summit of Postovaru for a memorable views and warm wine at Yager (https://www.yagerchalet.com/ ) (1799m).
From Poiana Brasov, you can drive through the mountains to the legendary Castle of Dracula. Also known as the Bran Castle (http://www.bran-castle.com/) needs no introduction as it has been depicted in many ways through Hollywood and documentaries. Surely the castle itself very imposing and seems as if it is an extension of the rock. Before entering the castle, visit the local bazaar. You will find local delicacies like Kurtos made from sweet yeast spun around a truncated cone. Inevitably you will also find knickknacks and souvenirs. Reclaimed by the original family, the castle in nowadays offers a kitsch portrayal of folklore legends such as Werewolves and the Iele; the mythical creatures of Romania. The use of modern technology, 3D imaging and videos, makes the depiction acceptable.
For a late lunch, I recommend stopping at Cheile Gradistei (https://www.cheilegradistei.ro/); a quaint little area nestled between the mountains.
The way back to Brasov will seem familiar the reason being that the road has one lane to go and one to come back. A good night sleep in Brasov will prepare you for your return to Bucharest.
Although this was a short journey into Romania, in addition to the smells of wet soil and fog, this expedition will add one more; the unique smells of Romania cuisine.